The Hunters Lap of Australia
"Gone Bush"
Houtman Abrolhos (& the Batavia)
Every once and a while in your adult life, you fortuitously come across a slice of history – even profound Australian history, you simply did not know existed and you can’t figure out why this would be the case. So it’s with this thought that this weeks blog explores two parts in the one place.
1. Our visit to an amazing coral reef system off the coast of Geraldton perched on the edge of the continental shelf, and;
2. At the end of part 1, for those interested in 16th century history (yep, in Australia) an interesting summarised look into a infamous shipwreck Celia and I never knew about until 2.5 weeks ago.
Background
The next leg of our journey started late one evening in the van after the boys drifted off to sleep, routine research for the next couple of legs of our trip from Kalbarri heading south. In doing so, we stumbled upon an amazing historical story about a particular Western Australian Island’s extremely dark history. A history of shipwrecks, hardship, mutiny and murder, bravery, and natural intrigue. In the 21st century, this group of islands are known for all the right reasons and has a nicely controlled level of tourism and sustainable commercial fishing. The strange thing about this though, Celia and myself had never previously heard of this Island, let alone the terrible atrocity that had occurred a very long time ago and why people from all over the world now travel to this special place. And it was through this new found discovery that made our next destination a simple decision for us, to see first hand this amazing place …so we set course for Geraldton some 150kms south of Kalbarri.
The heading of this blog will no doubt give this location away to some – particularly if you (unlike ourselves) already knew something of this piece of Australian (& Dutch) history and where/why it took place. Or because of it’s unique flora & fauna that scientists from all over the world love spending time here. Before we get into some of the detail, here’s a little background to this magical but desolate oceanic coral atoll in case you too are not familiar with the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, as they are officially named.
Commonly referred to as ‘The Abrolhos’, (Portugese for “keep your eyes open”) the group of islands are named after Dutch Commander Frederik de Houtman, who came across the group of low-lying treeless islands in June 1619.
The 3 Island groups of the Abrolhos Islands 70kms off Geraldton. WA. (note: only the areas in yellow mark the land – these are very small islands with significant coral reefs that look like land from the air).
An archipelago made up of 122 islands, the Abrolhos lies 70 kilometres out in the Indian ocean west of Geraldton – see inset. The islands are clustered into three main groups – Wallabi, Easter and Pelsaert – and spread from north to south across 100 kilometres of ocean. The islands and their surrounding reef communities are a meeting place for tropical and temperate sea life, forming one of the State’s unique marine ecosystems and the worlds most southern living coral reef.
These are pristine waters, a super rich biodiversity of marine and numerous examples of fauna, some of which are indigenous. There are also many historic shipwrecks, a modern thriving rock lobster industry, pearling, aquaculture and diving …all form part of the magic that is the Abrolhos.
The southern Pesaert Island in the Abrolhos. Did I mention it gets windy in this part of the world. This is what a 32 knot wind looks like from ~500M.
The Abrolhos lie in the stream of the southward-flowing Leeuwin Current, which carries warm, nutrient-rich, tropical water along the edge of the continental shelf, from the north of the state down the length of the Western Australian coast. The current carries a vital cargo of larvae, eggs and many juvenile species of corals and other marine life much further south of their typical oceanic range. Water temperatures in the current are maintained throughout the winter at around 20 to 22C, enabling corals and tropical species of fish and invertebrates to thrive in latitudes where they normally wouldn’t survive.
It was however the many shipwrecks we read about whilst conducting research back in Kalbarri as part of my loose quest to photograph shipwrecks on the WA coastline. Shipwrecks where their final resting place were sitting above the tidelines and were approachable from the mainland for long-exposure photography – not that there are many wrecks above the waterline in WA I’m finding out.
Batavia Replica built in Holland has national historical significance.
And it was through researching these locations we came to learn about one particular fascinating shipwreck of the ‘Batavia‘ that ran aground on morning reef in the Abrohlos Islands in 1629.
From reading various transcripts, news journals, local museum visits, even a couple of books of the Batavia we also purchased …it was through all these learnings we both could hardly believe that neither of us had not heard about the Batavia, until know. How could this be possible and why is this historic event not taught in Australian schools – perhaps it is, we simply did not know. It was at this point when we decided to find a local charter and fly out to the Islands to gather a better perspective of the Abrolhos, it’s dark history, amazing scenery and why the vast number of reefs of the Abrohlos have become a graveyard for so many past mariners.
(***Following the end of this blog is a chronological dot-point summary of the incredible story and stunning events that unfolded after the Batavia ran aground on morning reef in June 1629 ***).
Abrolhos Islands, WA
Our Geraldton leg started out by staying at the Sunset Beach Caravan Park 6kms north of the main Geraldton township and 11kms east to the regional Airport.
Flying over Long Island in the Abrolhos.
Our day out to the Abrolhos started windy as it often does on the west coast, however it was a little windier than normal with a wind forecast top of 30-32 knots or approx 55+kms p/hr and rising in the afternoon. Perhaps not the best weather conditions for light aircraft flying and to do some sightseeing, snorkelling, bird watching, swimming, beach walks and photographing an exposed coral reef in the middle of the Indian ocean where the highest land elevation is a mere 14 metres. However, it was the best looking forecast we were going to get in the short window we set aside so we went with it anyway.
We arrived at the small aircraft hangar at 8:30 owned and operated by Geraldton Charter. We went through our safety induction, signed the various waivers and then proceeded to taxi out to runway 21 in our little GA8 seater AirVan aircraft (made in east Gippsland VIC) with our young Kiwi pilot (Mark) at the wheel. A textbook take off directly into the wind followed by a sport’ish right hand turn and set a course for the most southern tip of the Abrohlos group, Pelsaert Island.
On route to the Abrolhos – Family Selfie with Celia’s iPhone
After a little onboard pilot banter, 30 odd minutes later, Pelsaert island emerges in our view and Mark gently descends the noisy Airvan to ~250M and levels out. The AirVan starts making deliberate right and then left slow weaving turns so we all could get a decent downward view of the various reefs for a photo or two and a glimpse of the very small land masses they were. This was all occurring whilst he was also giving us a runny commentary of the islands as well regularly speaking to the control tower in Geraldton advising our status and headings.
Mark was pointing out the different shipwrecks we were flying over at specific moments (16 known wrecks across the Abrolhos) however none of them could be seen from the air on the day due to the high winds, white caps and swells.
One of the many island inhabited by fisherman on the Abrolhos. Copyright Geoff Hunter
We also flew over the many of the permanent fishery housing for the limited fishing licenses the Dept of Fishing issue, mainly for Lobster fisherman, but also for Scallops and Finfish trade. Tiny islands like in the above image can be seen across 22 islands with fishing settlements which have been in existence since early last century and as a commercial fishery which thrives today through proper and balanced marine stewardship.
Our GA8 AirVan on East Wallabi Island, Abrolhos Islands. Copyright Geoff Hunter
Another 25 mins on and we land on East Wallabi Island on the most northerly group of islands. It was a typical gravel airstrip for these parts flanked by low-growth oceanic vegetation and very dry and dusty. there is no fresh water in these parts so everything you need must be brought in and taken out with you.
We all disembark and were instructed to make our way down the northern end of the airstrip towards Turtle bay beach. “Once you hit turtle beach at the cairn on you’re right, hang a right and walk 1.5kms up the pretty beach to a Dept of fisheries purpose-built shelter at the end of the bay and I’ll see you there, Mark says rather nonchalantly”. We all collect our belongings, donned on more suncream and eagerly set off.
Turtle Bay, East Wallabi Island. Abrolhos Islands. Copyright Geoff Hunter
Despite the sand occasionally blowing in our faces it was otherwise a beautiful walk and we were pleasantly surprised to see at one end of Turtle bay was reasonably protected from the strong southerly winds.
After a cup of tea, we swam, snorkelled, hunted for lizards basking in the sun, picked up shells and other marine life (some living and not), and with our eyes wide, walked around this amazing part of the island.
A Caspian Tern landing on a nest, Abrolhos Islands. Copyright Geoff Hunter
A single egg belonging to a Caspian Tern sitting in the middle of a walking path. Copyright – Geoff Hunter
We saw a few different species of sea and shore birds including, Lesser Noddy’s, various Terns, various Gull’s Sandpiper’s, Cormorants, Osprey and a nesting pair of white-breasted Sea Eagles …but sadly, no (yellow beak) Albatross which we hoped to see.
Some Tern species that nest here are among the largest migratory breeding colony’s in the world with 2+ million gracing these shores across the year. Although it was not peak season for nesting, we were fortunate enough to see some fine examples which made us feel a little what it must be like to be Sir David Attenborough for a few hours being in such a highly eco-important marine atoll which made it all the more special.
Aidan’s B&W Pano of Turtle Bay from behind the dept of fisheries built shelter – photo taken FujiFilm XP80 underwater camera. Copyright Aidan Hunter
There were also native Wallaby’s on the Island called Tammar – a tiny Wallaby and the first pouched mammal documented by european explorers. A story (or legend) behind naming of the Island called Rat Island on the Abrolhos was due to an explorer of the time in the late 16th century was observing from a distance ‘rats ‘on the island with a rather long tail. Besides a few that were caught for food, he ordered a number of cats from Dutch East India (Java) to be brought down to the Abrolhos in an effort to dispose of them, but after the cats had no effect, he soon learned the said rats where not rats after all but small Wallaby’s. So they then needed to find a way of disposing of the cats and Wallaby’s and both were hunted and most were shot – some of the Wallaby’s however were migrated to other Islands within the Abrolhos including east Wallabi where we spent the day observing some. Perhaps true – who knows for sure.
Gearing up for a snorkel in the Lobster rich waters
Just before lunch, the boys (including our Pilot Mark) decided to do some snorkelling and hopefully catch a Lobster to take back to Geraldton with us. Less than 5 minutes after setting off, Mark was back on the beach with an adult male Lobster in hand – what a start. Another 15 minutes later another two more, all about 1.3-5Kg each in size.
We were graciously handed one to take home ourselves which immediately piqued Aidan’s interest in this strange tentacle wielding crustacean.
Aidan carefully avoiding the Lobster’s tentacle whipping ways just after it was plucked from waters 1.5M deep and 25M behind him.
After I showed him how to pick it up and handle it without getting whacked by the antennae’s, Aidan built up the courage to hold it with both hands so I could grab a photo whilst he held his head just out of range. It was funny to watch.
A Deceased Sea Eagle
The rest of the afternoon was spent swimming and exploring around this part of the island and keeping out of the wind as much as you could, which was not easy as the wind was picking up as the day progressed. There was a limestone coral outcrop approx 800M from the shelter, where we saw a couple of Sea Eagle Nests without any eaglets in them. We were informed later that in one of the nests where two eggs but I did not want to walk over to see myself as a little earlier we came across a deceased eagle that had succumbed to these harsh island conditions. Given the size of and sharpness of their talons, was not something I wanted to be “tapped on the shoulder with” from walking too close to their nest site so I gave it a wide berth.
All in all, we had a great day despite the gale. The wind kept the temp down a little which was nice for a change, however as forecasted, the wind continued to gain strength over the course of the afternoon and we still had to fly back to Geraldton. We walked back at the aircraft at around 3:30pm and the wind by this time was howling – literally.
East Wallabi Island Airstrip in 32knot winds
The airstrip by this stage was a large dust bowl and those without eyewear were not faring well with all the sand and dirt swelling around the airstrip. A few final photo’s for everyone and we all pile back into the AirVan, engine growls to life again, clearance for take off is given and a bumpy and slight nervy lift off occurs. We thrust violently into the air as the gale takes hold and we’re hundreds of metres up in a few seconds and as the AirVan settles down we head out over the wreck of the Batavia but unfortunately the whitecaps put paid to seeing this old girl on this day.
Flying back to Geraldton, Loch dreaming about his epic day out at the Abrolhos.
As we hit cruising speed and altitude, it was time to reflect on a fantastic day and it became all too much for some with a quick kip and 30 minutes later, we safely arrive back in Geraldton.
The islands are an A Class Reserve, although visitors by boat are welcome to stay overnight in designated moorings only. There is no tourist accommodation available on any of the 122 islands and in day-visiting you must take all your own food and water provisions with you. 
No matter how you get to the Abrolhos, and what activity(s) draws you to this amazing place, the trip out and experiencing this remote and desolate coral atoll is definitely well worth the expense and time.
PART 2.
The Batavia – Mutiny, Murder and a broken captain
- The Batavia, the newest flagship of the fleet of the Dutch East India Company (the VOC), sets sail from Holland for Dutch East Indies in Java in Oct 1628 commanded by Francisco Pelsaert.
- The Batavia is carrying large quantities of Gold, Silver & Jewels for buying and trading spices.
- There are 322 people on board including officers, soldiers, women and children.
- The Batavia runs aground on morning reef, Beacon Island, Abrolhos in June 1629
- Of the 322 aboard, most passengers and crew managed to get ashore, although 40 people drowned.
- The island they run aground on has no water, food or trees – it’s stark, exposed and desolate.
- Pelsaert assembles 40 men and decides sail their 9.1M long boat to Batavia (now known as Jakarta) to seek support and form a rescue. (The journey takes an astounding 33 days without any loss of life).
- Of the remaining officers at the wreck site and in Pelsaert’s absence, a mutiny occurs arranged by leading commanding officer, Jeronimus Cornelisz
- Incredibly, 120 people as a result of the mutiny are systematically murdered by Cornelisz men.
- A soldier named Weibbe Hayes creates a faction in an effort to arrest the murders and defeat Cornelisz.
- The Sarrdum ship headed by Pelsaert leaves Batavia and arrives back in the Abrolhos.
- Cornelisz and his men are finally taken, tried, and a number of the murderers are sentenced by Pelsaert to death by hanging.
- Two minor offenders, were marooned on mainland Australia, never to be heard of again.
- The remaining mutineers were taken back to Batavia for trial.
- There we just 68 survivors left.
- A board of inquiry decided that Pelsaert had exercised a lack of authority and was therefore partly responsible for what had happened. His financial assets were seized and he died a broken man less than a year later.
- Soldier Wiebbe Hayes was hailed a hero
***********END**********
The Hunters Lap of Australia 
What an amazing adventure! The boys are getting an incredible education and if they don’t teach this story in school now then at least they know about it. One rumour has it that some aborigines with red hair are the descendants of those who were left on the mainland. And no, the town was not named after me
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Hi Gez,
Yes, an education they are getting alright. We allowed Aidan to read one of the books Celia and I were reading on the Batavia – not so sure this was a good idea.
There where many interesting words and expressions we had to explain to him in not so obvious words as a result. Hopefully though, by the time high school comes around for him and hopefully the history of the Batavia is taught, he will know about the Batavia better than most at his age …but we still cannot (reasonably) explain those redheads of Geraldton without conjecture. 🙂
GH
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Hey guys, the Batavia history was taught in my school including references to the red headed Gerald clan. I think there is a best seller book and movie out there too.
So shipwreck, mutiny, riches of gold and jewels, …… What I’d really like to know is how the lobster tasted.!
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Hi Tam,
The Lobster is still frozen solid actually.
We simply forgot about him as when we arrived back at the airport he was still very much alive and well. We have a 40ltr freezer in the back of the D4 so we put him in there to put him to sleep for the 20 minute journey back home, but forgot about him. he is now frozen solid. He’ll be thawed & cooked on Xmas day is the current plan! 🙂
GH
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Wonderful Smile
Wonderful Sea
Wonderful Family 🙂
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Thanks Harry for the lovely comments. Celia says high and put this place high on your next holiday list – not too from to come from Tokyo and if noticed quite a few Harley Davidsons rolling around in the cooler south region – perfect for you! 🙂
GH
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Gorgeous history but a very tragic, what a life those people had…the Tern is lovely Geoff (difference might be that Fairy Terns are smaller??, like little fairies? re: last entry)…the deceased eagle photograph spooky and awesome, i really like ti. Oh wait…I think i hear your phone ringing ..don’t answer it its probably just Nat Geo with an assignment …loving this travelogue very much! I do recall something in my childhood school days about a the Dutch landing in NT, somewhere further north of where you are and they left people on the mainland i believe it was around Darwin area, (don’t know about red heads?) and it was way before James Cook landed, don’t recall any further detail but it might be another landing from the Dutch. (BTW it was called New Holland once was it not??) I must have been paying attention that day…the landscape is lovely, keep applying that sunscreen… it looks very very hot…love kisses and hugs…Sonxx
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Hey Son,
Taking images of Birds (or most wildlife in General) was not a real interest in my photography until I recently read a book called “The Shark and the Albatross” by John Aitchison. John work is amazing and the stories of how he has taken them are extraordinary and had worked for years with Sir David on many of the BBC wildlife series. After Visiting the Abrolhos – a genuine unique wildlife wilderness and arguably untouched and protected, I can definitely see the attraction in filming birds for conservation and scientific researches benefits. Unless you are atJohn level, not sure it would pay the bills as a full time job, but boy, wouldn’t it be great. (The isolation may be difficult to swallow though)
Back in the 16th century, yes, we were known as New Holland and it was not until the sailors from old Blity back in 1770 made for the start of colonisation – officially taking place in 1791. Here’s an interesting spin on what supposedly took place puplished by the Aust Gov’t http://www.australia.gov.au/about-australia/australian-story/european-discovery-and-colonisation
GH
PS, yes, one of the larger misc. expenses of our trip has been 50+ sunscreen – I still manage to get sunburnt on the odd occasions though….
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